LEAVING SWITZERLAND

August 16, 2026

BOURG -SAINT-PIERRE –> LE PONT
VIA ALPINA DAY 56 – SUNDAY 16 AUGUST 2026

DISTANCE HIKED: 22.9 km
ELEVATION GAIN: 1,060 m

TOTAL DISTANCE HIKED: 1,431.18 km
TOTAL ELEVATION GAIN: 74,496 m

It was great to spend a night in a tent without worrying that some cow might wander over during the night. I have to admit, though, that Swiss cows have been remarkably placid compared with the more inquisitive Austrian ones.

We weren’t planning a long day, so we allowed ourselves a little sleep-in. Even so, we were packed up and gone before anyone else stirred in the campground. Our target was the Col St Bernard at 2,473 metres in elevation — our last Swiss mountain pass and the point where we would leave Switzerland and enter Italy.

We were keen to stay in a hotel that night. There were two possibilities: Hotel Italia, just over the border, or Hotel Swiss, about three kilometres further along the trail. Surely one of them would have a room on a Sunday night.

It was cold as we left Bourg-Saint-Pierre. The village struck me as ancient, and not too concerned with making an effort to bring itself into the 21st century.

The trail rose gradually until we reached a huge dam. It was full, and there were plenty of campervans parked along its banks. What a great vantage point. Across the top of the dam was a huge array of floating solar panels. We wondered whether their placement had something to do with the winter conditions.

By now, though, we were both feeling lethargic. Perhaps it was accumulated fatigue, or simply the result of not eating enough. I felt like I was crawling.

From the dam, the climb became an even slower uphill grind, following a winding mountain road, all the while above the St Bernard Pass tunnel. Looking at the geology of these mountains, it seemed almost inconceivable that someone had managed to build a tunnel through them.

We saw no other hikers until we were approaching the top of the pass, when a group of four came towards us. Reaching the Col St Bernard felt like another milestone. Our last Swiss mountain pass.

There was plenty of activity around the summit. We stopped for an early lunch/late breakfast at Mont Jeux Café on the Swiss side, then finally crossed fully over the pass towards Italy. And that was when we discovered a whole new level of busyness.

Hammer was reluctant to even approach Hotel Italia. The crowds milling around the summit where the hotel was located were enough to put him off.

Fortunately, we had one more option. So we continued down the trail.

Our first sighting of the rugged Italian peaks beyond the summit was a little daunting. I had imagined we were heading into a valley, but the landscape opened up into something much bigger and wilder. There were cars and motorbikes everywhere, people out enjoying their Sunday drives, and watching the traffic emerge from the tunnel was fascinating. I couldn’t believe how deep beneath the pass the tunnel actually was.

We eventually reached the village of Saint-Rhémy, where Hotel Swiss was located. As soon as we approached, I could see that the village had undergone a full restoration at some stage. People were wandering along the narrow cobbled main street, admiring the work. Hotel Swiss was a no-chance. One look at the packed dining room told us that.
So we left and continued hiking.

Hammer was sullen with disappointment. We had broken one of the golden rules of hiking: have no expectations and you’ll never be disappointed.

There wasn’t much accommodation on the trail for the next 35 kilometres or so, so we stopped at a highway diner for a late lunch/early dinner. They only served charcuterie boards, and the order would take 30 minutes. We waited. The food was OK. After more than an hour in the diner, we finally left and got back on the trail, hoping to find somewhere to camp before the now-predictable afternoon rain arrived.