BUSY JOCH PASS

VIA ALPINA DAY 45 – WEDNESDAY 5 AUGUST 2026

ENGELBERG –> GUMMEN

DISTANCE HIKED: 28.25  km
ELEVATION GAIN:  1,954 m

TOTAL DISTANCE HIKED: 1,136.05 km
TOTAL ELEVATION GAIN: 58,826 m

Since we were camped on the banks of the Engelberger Aa, a river fed by glacial melt, I couldn’t help but feel a little melancholy looking at the remnants of the glaciers hanging high above the valley. I found myself wondering what would become of this river when the glaciers are finally gone. I know that’s a rather depressing way to start the day.

We walked into Engelberg to buy breakfast and lunch before heading back into the mountains. The village has a timeless feel, anchored by its enormous Benedictine monastery, which dominates the skyline. It’s a beautiful town, with elegant hotels, immaculate streets, and no shortage of outdoor sports stores.

We stopped at a lovely bakery and enjoyed a delicious Gruyère quiche for breakfast before setting off. A cooler day had been forecast, which promised to make the climbing a little more comfortable.

The trail circled the edge of town before pointing firmly uphill. The cool morning air made the climb feel much easier than yesterday’s, and we soon passed through a pine forest before emerging into broad alpine meadows backed by rugged limestone peaks.

From there the track zig-zagged steadily upwards, following the line of a chairlift. I found today’s ascent surprisingly enjoyable. The cooler temperatures and endless switchbacks kept the gradient manageable. Hammer, however, found the chairlift a constant reminder of just how much easier the journey could have been. Every chair passing overhead seemed to be full.

I knew there had to be more than hiking trails drawing so many people up the mountain. The answer revealed itself as we reached the summit station and walked past the hotel. Before us lay an enormous valley containing a perfectly still glacial lake, with a magnificent glacier rising beyond it. It was one of those scenes that makes you stop in your tracks.

For a moment it was tempting to become tourists ourselves—to linger by the lake, maybe even hire a paddle boat and spend a lazy afternoon on the water. But that wasn’t why we were here. Instead, we walked along its shore befire turning away to begin another 450 metres of climbing towards Joch Pass.

The only disappointment was the constant sound of jackhammers from a construction site beside the lake. The noise felt completely out of place in such a spectacular landscape, and I couldn’t wait to leave it behind. Unfortunately, our trail climbed high above the lake, so we listened to the echo of machinery for much of the ascent. Thankfully the workers eventually stopped for a break, and silence returned as we continued climbing alongside a handful of day hikers.

I’ve always felt there is something peaceful and unhurried about lakes, which is probably why the construction noise seemed so jarring.
There was no such problem at Engelensee. Descending from Joch Pass, we were greeted by another beautiful alpine lake, its blue surface perfectly still beneath the surrounding peaks. It looked like the sort of place where you could happily spend a week doing very little—reading a book, wandering along the shore, and simply watching the light change across the mountains.

We stopped at Rossboden Hütte for a well-earned break and shared a delicious slice of apple pie. We were surprised by how many people were out on the trails, especially for the middle of the week.

From there we had hoped to leave the crowds behind, but we were disappointed. The excellent trail continued to carry a steady stream of day hikers coming in the opposite direction.

Reaching Tannensee, we were even more surprised to find a little tourist train carrying visitors around the shores of the huge lake. It certainly wasn’t the wilderness experience we had expected.

By now the clouds were beginning to close in and rain was forecast, so we were keen to keep moving.
Beyond Tannensee we finally left the crowds behind. We didn’t see another person for the rest of the day.

In low-hanging mist we followed a narrow ridge with steep drop-offs on both sides. To our left stretched magnificent views across the Bernese Alps, while another alpine lake lay below us on the right. Even under grey skies, the scenery was spectacular. Seeing the glacier up close brought me back to the thought I’d had this morning. Its big and  still dominates the valley, but it’s hard not to wonder how different this place will look in another generation.

Mindful of the approaching weather, we hurried across the exposed ridge before beginning our descent shortly after passing the Planplatten chairlift.

We found a campsite just as the first drops of rain began to fall. Safe beneath our shelter, warm and dry, we listened as the rain steadily intensified outside. Timing  has again been on our side.