NEVER ENDING CLIMB

VIA ALPINA DAY 23 – TUESDAY 14 JULY 2026
CHEMNITZER HÜTTE (RIFUGIO G.  PORRO) – ABOVE LAKE SILVELLA

DISTANCE HIKED: 24.5 km
ELEVATION GAIN: 1,820 m

TOTAL DISTANCE HIKED: 574.1 km
TOTAL ELEVATION GAIN: 31,880m

On a perfectly still morning we left the hut around 8am. We were heading toward another hut – Edelrauthütte, which meant descending down to  a lake –  Lago de Neves and then asceding to the hut.   A mist hung low on the mountains, it was a nice hiking temperature. As we were at 2,420m there were no trees and no bird song, it  was silent.

We had a great nights sleep at the hut and a terrific breakfast which I  hope will set us up for the day. Last night’s thunderstorm rumbled and growled but produced only a spit of rain. Thunderstorms and  rain were predicted for today.

We followed VA Route 24 on a well trafficked and well made path, down to the lake. In fact the route is so well trafficked we counted close to 30 dropped or discarded tissues on our way down.

The lake is enormous and appeared to be busier on the opposite shore. A herd of cows was resting on the shoreline as we approached.  We stopped for  a short break above the lake. It was a beautiful and calm morning, no wind.  We were enjoing the quite when a tinkling of bells broke the silence. It was a big heard of goats coming past us but  gave us a wide berth.  With full udders they looked like they had trouble walking. 

Halfway along the lake the trail heads up towards the hut. It was a steep ascent almost all the way. There were a couple of other hikers we passed on the way. As we ascended there were views of the Chermister hutte where we had come from. Pretty soon Edelrauthütte came into view and for some time we could see both huts.

Edelrauthütte is a pretty impressive, fairly new and a very modern looking hut. When we arrived there wasn’t anybody around so we filled up our water bottles and  moved on for a 1,000m descent to Dun.

A low mist clung to the mountain tops.  As we were descending  the mist came lower and lower closing out any views. There was thunder rolling in the distance followed by light rain at first.  Soon a very loud  crack of thunder and heavy  rain soon followed. The rain got heavier and soon turned to graupel with small balls of icy rain bouncing off the ground. The rain lasted about 30 minutes. We had rain jackets on so our pants and shoes were soaked. It wasn’t cold despite the icy rain.

The rain stopped as quickly as it had started.  The sun came out and you wouldn’t even have know that it had rained, except for our sodden clothes and wet trail.

We reached Dun around 2pm after a short break to wring out our wet clothes, we commenced the ascent to Pfitscher-Joch-Haus at 2,275 m. So essentially regain all the elevation  we just lost from Edelrauthütte.

The sun was shining we were drying out. We followed the  Weitenbergach river upstream. We were on a dirt road with some shade which made the climbing feel a bit easier.
We were passing lovely lush green meadows  rising  up to stony peaks. The climb was relentless, but we were grateful it was on a dirt road and the storm was over.  

We passed a few farmhouses and a big herd of cows who were very vocal. A few times we had to walk off the track to give way to a mother with a calf.  Past a farmhouse where we filled up on water the dirt road gave way to a single track that continued zig-zagging up the mountain.

We knew that at the pace we were moving we would not make Pfitscher-Joch-Haus at 2,275 m, before 9pm. So we wanted to get the first long part of the climb finished before we looked for a campsite.   We passed  Lake  Silvella and Hammer was keen to stop here but the ground looked rocky and boggy in part.  We continued up a bit further and found a nice camp spot with views of mountain ridges in front. 

It was almost 7pm by the time we got the tent up.  I cooked a dinner – Prawn Rissoto, the first meal we’ve cooked on trail – and exhausted we settled into our warm sleeping bags.