OVER THE RIDGE AND INTO ITALY
VIA ALPINA DAY 16 – TUESDAY 7 JULY 2026
BELOW GAMASCOFEL/CIMA MEZZANA PEAK TO ALPS NEMES HUTTE
DISTANCE HIKED: 26.6 km
ELEVATION GAIN: 1,520 m
TOTAL DISTANCE HIKED: 400.2 km
TOTAL ELEVATION GAIN: 22,310m
We had a great, although cold campsite last night. Hammer slept well while I kept waking, imagining the sound of horses hooves nearby. I think I slep better in grizzly country then I’m managing with these ‘domesticated’ foraging animals. We keft the campsite a bit later then usual and found that the pack of horses had moved down into the valley below. Bees were buzzing around us as we were breaking camp.
While we hiked in the shadow created by the mountains to our right, it was freezing. We eventual climbed up onto the ridge and warm sunshine. The sound of bees and occasional overhead plane matched the wind whistling around us. The walk most of the morning was on a ridgetop with brilliant views towards a village in the valley below and snowy mountain peaks to the west of us. We still had a few tricky sections to descend with the help of cables. The cables definitely helped. By the time we reached Pozenhutte we were passed by 35 hikers heading in the opposite direction.
We had lunch at the hut before heading back on trail. The waiter spoke impeccable English. We were so embarrassed by our lack of language skills. We spent 90 minutes at the hut and it was hard to leave. Hammer had a pasta with meat and mushrooms and Bratwurst with saukraut for me. I also had a coffee with strudel while Hammer had a coke for breakfast while waiting for the main meal. Hopefully it powers us for the afternoon. By the time we left, the deck was full of cyclists and hikers.
With full stomachs the uphill section leaving the hut was a challenge. We soon settled into a rhythm, although the climbing did not feel as easy as yesterday. The day was warm with clear skies. We were heading towards Filmoor -Standschütenhutte. On the way up we were passed by around 30 hikers heading in the opposite direction. One group of about 15 people were US schoolkids on a summer camp. What an amazing experience for them.
On the way up to the hut we passed a small lake which looked perfect for swimming on such a warm day. It would also make a great campsite. We trudge uphill eventually arriving at the hut. We were only making a short stop to get a cold drink. It was hard to get the waiters attention as he was busy having a schnapps and a beer chaser with another customer. Eventually I found someone to get a cold drink from. Not the friendliest of huts. Just before we left we spoke with a French female hiker who met two other Australians who were hoping to finish the whole route in 90 days or less. She was not in favour of rushing through the VA and not fully appreciating it. She has 4 months and she doesn’t think she will finish it. Hike your own hike, I guess.
From this hut Hammer and I decided to hike a different route to the Karnische HW 403 route, we’ve been following so far. We took the VA route 146, which too us over the summit above the hut and we hiked into Italy heading towards Sexten.
We were done with this section of ridge walking and wanted to have a rest day in Sexten. Judging by the number of hikers we’ve seen in the last few days, we’ve seen some the best of Austria. Just as we were told by that couple we met earlier.
As we hiked over the ridge a huge “valley’ opened up in front of us with grey stony mountain peaks – the Dolomites in the distance. Such amazing rock formations. We were like kids in Disneyland. Wide unwooded valley framed by these incredible peaks.
We had planned to camp tonight but this route offered very little suitable ground. By the time we found suitable spots they were taken up by cows. So we walked on to a mountain hut – Alpe Nemes Hutte. Quite eccentric owner, fed us some soup and gave us a bed. There are only 3 other people staying here.
