INTO ASHLAND
PCT DAY 97: Mile 1701.4 – Mile 1715
Tuesday July 19, 2016: 14.6 miles -13.6 miles on PCT + 1 mile to Callahan’s, (23.4km)
I woke very early anxious to get into Ashland and get off my feet for a little while and also to get my ankle examined. It was cool and overcast when we left our campsite. We had just under 14 miles to hike to Callahan’s Lodge turnoff and from there about a mile to get to the lodge where we planned to stop for lunch. After lunch we were going to hitch a ride to Ashland which is about 12 miles away.
The trail climbed through lush green meadows and forest. It wasn’t long before we came across several tents strung out along a mountain side. They did not look like typical lightweight through hiker tents. It was only when we looked beyond that we could see why they were camped there. A stunning view of Mt Shasta standing majestically above the green rolling hills was in front of them. What a great view to have in front of you while having breakfast. The landscape just appears more gentle and less intimidating than what we had seen up to date.
We crossed several dirt roads and had our second trail magic in Oregon at one of these. A cooler filled with cold cans of Shasta Cola. I appreciated a chance to sit down especially when I found we had phone reception. A quick log in and more bad news. My email account was hacked and password changed. So I can no longer access my emails. Not something I could fix while out on trail. But it added to my worries. I tried to push it all out of my mind and remind myself that I will probably pass this way only once – don’t waste the present for what might be in the future.
We hiked through an undulating forest trail until we got closer to the I-5. Earlier in the day we passed a large group hiking in the opposite direction. There were at least 15 hikers we greeted as they speedily strode by. The caboose hiker told us they were members of the Rogue Valley Retirement Home hiking club. They looked so sparky and energetic, we were surprised they were from a retirement home. So it is true about Oregonians being outdoorsy. Seeing them brightened up our morning. We were loving being in Oregon.
We reached Callahan’s just after 12 and what a relief to get off our feet and eat some town food. We treated ourselves to a burger and milkshake – what else?
It took less then 10 minutes to get a ride to Ashland with Phil and his dog Lucky. Phil was such an interesting character it was a shame we couldn’t have lunch with him and chat some more. He served in the Canadian Navy and visited Australia escorting the British Royal vessel Britannia, when Queen Elizabeth II was on her tour of the colonies in 1954.
Phil dropped us off at our motel on the south side of town. There was a medical centre just across the parking lot from the motel. This was my first encounter with the American health care system. And it was very positive in terms of quality of care but so damn expensive. Anyhow, the news on the ankle was not good. I have a fractured fibular which is only slighty displaced. So I am now in a temporary cast waiting to see an orthopaedic specialist in a few days for future treatment. It won’t need surgery but my hike may be over. Not the news I was hoping for, a day before my birthday. I messaged my physical therapist in Australia and very generously she spent late night hours while at home explaining rehabilitation and treatment options. It has given me some hope of maybe returning to some section of the trail before cold weather sets in Washington.
Hammer will continue and I will float around and put on some of the 20 pounds I have lost in the last 3 months. Disappointed beyond words, especially since we had completed the most difficult section of the hike. But there is an element of luck in everything we do. Life can be so random.
I have so enjoyed following you and looking at your pictures,I am so sorry you have to get off trail and it will be hard for you to see hammer go off without you.my grand daughter is on the trail they are near castle crags,she is Ella Raff aka red riding hood.i sent her your message about finding a stone and taking in the view.do hope you have some good news re your fracture.i live in Devon England and did lots of walks in the Lake District with my husband he has since died but the memories are there
LikeLike
Oh Anne, I am sorry that your husband is no longer alive. There is something about those shared memories that is hard to describe to others who were not a part of them. I feel disappointed that I will be off trail but also accept that is the luck of the draw.
LikeLike
I had a very similar injury while traversing a very steep slope in northern Idaho. In addition to the cracked bone I damaged ligaments and tendons. I had to use crutches and wear a rigid boot for several weeks. I then need several weeks of physical therapy on my ankle. Hopefully your recovery will be quicker if you did not damage ligaments and tendons. It took about 8 months before I could walk pain free. But my ankle is pain free now and I can hike all day.
Best wishes for a quick and lasting recovery.
LikeLike
Ooh Dave,
Sounds like you did some serious damage. I know ankles are fickle and take time to heal properly. I am a runner and long term healthy ankle is my priority now. So far the scans I’ve had do not show soft tissue damage. Although I’ve only had an X-ray, not sure how they can tell?
LikeLike
I was very lucky to find a great orthopedic physician who specialized in ankles. In addition to private practice she is the team physcian for a college running team and for Olympic athletes. The only diagnostic tools she used were X-rays and touch. I told her my goal was to hike pain free and she helped me achieve that. I am very pleased.
LikeLike
Great when you get good care. You were indeed lucky to find a good doctor.
LikeLike
Oh no! So sorry to hear about the fractured fibular. It has to be such a disappointment. Still, what an adventure for 1,600+ miles that very, very, few have ever experienced. Nothing but good thoughts and wishes to both of you and here’s to a great continued PCT journey for Hammer.
LikeLike
Thank you Rick for your kind thoughts and wishes. I do hope to be able to do a section maybe towards the end in Washington and then come back next year to finish. I never thought I would be a DNF, but that’s life. You are right I do feel so privileged to have covered 1600 miles and under the conditions we had this year.
LikeLike
Just wanted to add, I have been following your blog your whole journey, the whole story has been so peaceful and beautiful. I’m sorry about your leg but you have such a positive attitude, it will probably turn into a good thing somehow 🙂 Good luck to you.
LikeLike
Thank you fir following our trip so far Sally. I hope to be back. Seeing the specialist tomorrow so will know more then.
LikeLike
BUGGER!!! Terrible news Steph. I can believe that you have walked so far on a fractured fubula – bloody determined woman you are. Just another hurdle to pass I guess :(. Hope you can still celebrate your birthday. Say hi to Mike and take care. Matt and Brig xo
LikeLike
Thanks Matt and Brig,
it has been a memorable birthday. So not what we planned. But that’s life.
LikeLike
Glad you had it examined and treated, such bad news but give it some time and before you know you will be back.xx Happy Birthday to you too. Best wishes and have a great day.xx
LikeLike
Thank you Marg,
it has been a memorable birthday for so many reasons. I am sure we will laugh about it down the track.
LikeLike
Offer still stands! I sent an email a few days ago, but if hacked you probably didn’t get it. Understand you may have people and contacts, but if we can assist, please don’t hesitate to ask. Hope you have a great rest and a wonderful birthday!
LikeLike
I did not see the email Debbie. Still trying to have that resolved. I am seeing a specialist in the morning and will know more then. Thank you for your kind offer. Will stay in touch.
LikeLike
Space at our place if you need it.
LikeLike
Thank you Debbie. It is comforting to know. I will know more tomorrow.
LikeLike
Very saddened to hear the diagnosis and the impact on your hike. Perhaps it means you can get an early start on writing your travel book 🙂 Your blog has been very closely followed by me and, I am sure, lots of Striders and other friends back here in Oz.
LikeLike
Thank you Centurion,
I am hoping it is a temporary setback. I will see an orthopaedic specialist in the morning and will have a better idea of how long it will take. I will definetely be back to finish it. I look forward to sorting through all my images on a big screen when I get back. Sure has been a big slice of life.
LikeLike
I am another reader who has really enjoyed reading your blog from the beginning way back at Campo. It has been an amazing journey for both of you. I can’t imagine how difficult it is to hike this far and then have to recalibrate the next steps. I have been on the PCT the last three years (13,14,15) and thru hiked it last year. I has the good fortune to meet two women in their early 60’s who had broken bones in their feet and had returned to complete the PCT. One, Unbreakable, completed the PCT after her injury and went on to complete the PCT a second time last year. Her and her husband, No Trace, are triple crowners and wonderful ambassadors for the long distance hiking community. One of the things I found was that the day to day hiking tended to focus our thinking on the short term daily and weekly goals. It was very difficult to find the perspective to look at the overall achievement. But once time goes by and things settle I believe you and Mike will talk over and over again, with the conversation starter, ” Remember that time on Hat Creek Rim?” or Remember that day we walked into that little cafe?”, And the stories and laughter and good memories will flow. The distance you have hiked, the challenges of going over the Sierra and the stream crossings, the memories you have made, will all be cherished deeply and for many years to come.
Cheers, More Cowbell, Yellowknife
LikeLike
Thank you so much Kyle for your thoughtful comment. It made me cry because we were looking forward to building on those shared memories. But you are right we have already had a huge slice of the trail together and the next stage will be just a different slice. This trail is really something special. Apart from its bountiful natural scenic qualities, it is also the people that we have met along the way that I will also cherish. And the wonderful online community that you know are supporting you along the way. I can see now why you would keep coming back. I will be back, if not this year then soon.
LikeLike
So sorry about your leg! I am sending healing thoughts and prayers your way. I have been inspired by you and Hammer and your awesome trek on the PCT, and continue to be inspired by your positivity and resolve amidst this bump in the road. I have no doubt that your and Hammer’s journey, although on separate paths for a time, will be just as enlightening. Cheers!
LikeLike
Thank you for your thoughts and prayers Tisa. It is definitely a setback but we will regroup and carry on.
LikeLike
So so so sorry about your ankle. I’m as devastated as you are. I’m hoping you can rest for two weeks maybe and then continue as I think you have made good time so far and maybe you could have some time off. Or strap your ankle really really tightly and keep going. Go girl!!!
LikeLike
Thank you Clare,
I am seeing a orthopaedic specialist in the morning for treatment and rehab plan. A few weeks off would be a good outcome.
LikeLike
Hi Corky. It’s Dana Robinson again. Well this WAS NOT the outcome I was expecting from this blog entry. I am so so sorry. So here’s the deal: As I told you waaaaay back south of Warner Springs, Stephen and I have a very comfortable house with a private guest wing at Black Butte Ranch just outside of Sisters. I have (along with throwing a wedding here this summer for my daughter) been section hiking Oregon all summer. I’m heading out day after tomorrow (Friday) to finish. Can you get to Sisters? You can have your own private wing and use of our car when we are here and also when we aren’t. No strings, no payment, you can just make yourself at home and Hammer will cross right by here. We won’t be here much until August 11th but the house will be and so will a car for you after next Wednesday. Google Black Butte Ranch and call me 303-641-3837. Sisters is a GREAT little town!
LikeLike
Thank you so much Dana,
I was going to contact to to get a recommendation for a doctor. But we ended up staying right next door to a clinic so it worked out. Your offer is so generous. Will call you after I’ve seen the specialist tomorrow.
LikeLike
Happy Birthday Stef ooops sorry Corky. What a bugger having to miss some of the walk, hope it gets better soon and you can meet up with Hammer real soon.
LikeLike
Thank you Tina.
LikeLike
Hi Hammer and Corky, I have been following you the whole hike, but I haven’t commented until now. I am so sorry to hear about Corky’s injury and to hear that she won’t be able to continue the hike. I will keep you both in my prayers.
LikeLike
Thank you Thomas.
LikeLike
Hello again. Jann here. I had offered my assistant from Ashland when you first posted about your injury. Oh my gosh…….I was shocked to read the outcome of your initial injury. Unfortunately, I left Ashland this morning to return to southern California. But I can see by all the offers you have received, that you are in many good hands. I will continue to follow your journal and wait for the results of tomorrow’s meeting with a specialist.
Best to you
Jann
LikeLike
We didn’t get into Ashland till Tuesday afternoon and I recall you were leaving on Tuesday. With the medical centre right by the Motel it worked out really well. Thank you for your kind offer of help.
LikeLike
Oh Corky, I am so sorry to read this news! Dog gone it! The important thing is that you were able to get medical care and you are healthy and will heal quickly. Will you wait around in Oregon and continue after you are healed?
LikeLike
Hard to decide until I see orthopaedic specialist recommends
LikeLike
Corky, I don’t know Dana Robinson above, but I do know Black Butte Ranch. What a wonderful offer she made and it would be perfect as a place to connect with Hammer along the trail in central Oregon. Hoping things work out so Hammer and you can make some more trail memories together.
LikeLike
Thank you Rick . I do look forward to seeing more of Oregon.
LikeLike
Hi Again Corky, I hope you got good news this morning. I am heading to mile 1887 tomorrow and will arrive at Hwy 242 (mile 1981) next Tuesday. Hwy 242 is just 20 minutes from our home so Stephen will pick me up there and I will have a day off next Wednesday (7/27). In the meantime I won’t have much cell coverage though Stephen will (but he’s not that great at hearing/answering his phone.) He will be in Colorado while I’m hiking this portion. That said, our house is available all that time (even without us here), and until mid October, and there is a Toyota 4 w drive here that is an automatic and can be driven with your left foot! It’s good on forest service roads and should get you to Hammer in numerous places if he continues to hike. Would love to talk to you if you are interested- I think the main challenge is you getting to Black Butte Ranch. After that it’s just simple logistics.
Stephen’s # is 541-543-4567. (but try me first)
LikeLike
Sent you a text.
LikeLike
Hmmm. Didn’t receive a text.
LikeLike
Oops my bad, sent again.
LikeLike
If you decide on BB I can get you there.
LikeLike
Super Debbie. I have sent a text to your earlier message.
LikeLike
Here is my Cell phone # for text. The other is land line.
LikeLike
?
LikeLike
Duh…503-428-1513
LikeLike
Dear Corky, so sorry to hear about your injury. You are pretty tough to have hiked many miles in much pain. I wish you a full and speedy recovery. It has been wonderful to hear of the many generous offers of help. Sadly, all I can offer is encouragement and prayer from a long way away. All the best to Hammer as he carries on alone. Your blog has been wonderful to follow, and I look forward to reading of the adventures to come.
LikeLike
Thank you for your words of encouragement. It is only a temporary setback. The adventure continues just differently.
LikeLike