MASON DIXON LINE

AT Day 065:  Sunday June 11,  2023

Mile 1061 + 21  miles / 33.6km

Total Distance Hiked:1082 miles/1741  km

Raven Rock Shelter  – Pen Mar Park  – Mason Dixon Line  – Pen Mar Rd – Buena Vista Rd  – PA Route 16 – Mentzer Gap Road  – Rattlesnake Run Road  – Deer Lick Shelter  – Old Forge Park – Rattlesnake Run Road – Tumbling Run Shelter  – Chimney Rock  – Rocky Mountain Shelter 

A: 3300 ft /1007 m  D:3290 ft /1003 m

Raven Rock was a lovely spot. The campsites were set amongst towering trees with lush ferns at ground level. This morning the birds seem to start singing way too early. I woke up still tired, Hammer was fast asleep. On autopilot we were both soon in packing up and breaking camp mode. Today is expected to be hot with temp around 35°C ( 95 F) and humidity in the high 90s. Hammer was keen to get some miles in before the heat sets in. 

We left the campground before 6am accompanied by the sound of a buzzing mosquito.  They’ve arrived, just one for now. 

It wasn’t long before we reached the High Rock overlook after passing dozens of graffiti rocks underfoot. You know if it was just one it would be okay but it’s just every single rock has been  spray painted. We were commenting on what kind of idiot comes out here with spray cans. We soon took a short detour  to High Rock overlook and discovered the source of the spray paint.  The rock can be reached by car and there were groups of people already up there watching the sunrise.  The rock was completely graffitied and the place was littered in rubbish. As Hammer said. you can’t give nice rocks to some people.

 

Soon after leaving the Rock we passed a hiker lying down on the trail. We asked him if he was OK? He said that he had hurt his shoulder and ended up sleeping on the trail. I offered him some water and painkillers which he accepted. It was when I was handing him the pills that I realised he was blind. His trail name (and YouTube channel) Badass and Blind on the AT, he said he was trying to finish the Maryland section of the AT. Even if it takes him a mile a day.  He said he’ll rest up a bit and he’ll be fine.  I thought we had it tough. 

 

The rocky descent that followed from High Rock was brutal,  our first thoughts were about Badass, how on earth is he going to manage this?  We have full vision and ability to move in this landscape and found it tough going.  Meeting Badass made us less inclined to grumble about the rocks.

Once we descended off the rocky section we were hiking in a park, smooth trail, beautiful tall trees and plenty of shade to cover us in the rising heat. 

Gunshot reverberated somewhere to our left as we descended off Black Rock Mountain and headed down towards Pen Mar Park State Park.  All morning all I could think about was food. Our provisions from Harpers Ferry were running low and we were rationing our supply. The park has a small snack bar and a drink machine which we have both excited to visit.  We left the rocks behind and had a nice beautiful groomed easy trail for about a mile to the park. 

We got to the park much quicker than we expected to and being early Sunday morning everything was closed. Disappointed about the snack bar and the drink machine we set our sights on making the next State Park with a restaurant in 18 miles.  So we filled up on water and headed off.  Soon after leaving the park we crossed the Mason Dixon Line and crossed into Pennsylvania.  High school history lessons flooded back. For the next hour we talked about the American Civil War

First impressions of Pennsylvania,  the woods smell really sweet.  It was  like someone was cooking sweet smelling  jam somewhere nearby.   The birds were singing, the air was still cool although humid and the air smelled sweet. Life was good but it would be better with some more food. 

We crossed the river and a long sweaty climb up Mt Dunlop followed. So much for sweet smelling Pennsylvania. When we got to the top of Mount Dunlop there was a very strong order of horse poop. We looked around but couldn’t see the source.  The woods were still lovely and the smell dissipated once we started to descend.

Crossing PA Route 16 we passed a large southbound group of hikers who were heading home. We said our good mornings and greetings and I said how this wonderful day would have been  better if the snack store back at the park was open. They shrugged and we walked on. A few minutes later one of their group ran up to us and offered us a bag of nuts, it was all they had left over. Unbelieve it’s what I had wanted to get back in Harpers Ferry. So happy to have some snacks till we make it to US Highway 30 later in the day.  We walked for about an hour and we took little bits of the nut snack hoping it would last till the end of the day.   

It was almost lunchtime when we crossed Little Antietam Creek on a brand new bridge.  A sign was taped to the railing “Trail Magic Ahead (Today)”. Could it be an old sign was my first thought. We were so excited to follow the signs in the park and find that it was for real.  A spread of hot dogs, cold Gatorade,  different sweets and chips. The trail angel was a Gettysburg local “Tycoon” who has section hiked more then half the trail so far. Moose, who passed us earlier  was already there finishing his first hot dog. Many hot dogs later and our hunger fully satisfied we took a doggy bag of sweets for breakfast and were on our way.  Couldn’t believe our luck, the universe provides. There was no longer a need for us to push to  get to the diner on US 30. 

Within 5 minutes of leaving Tycoon we passed our second trail magic, Brett in his beautiful Airstream camper. Moose was already there so we stopped as well. Cold watermelon was most welcomed and Brett made us a burrito to take with us for dinner. Brett was a keen cyclist having done a cycling road  trip through Tasmania. Hammer spent awhile admiring the gear set up with two bikes in the back of the pickup truck. 

The universe provided us today with three of the most generous and kind humans. We were feeling so grateful. It was a very long lunch  It was after 2pm when we finally got back on trail. 

A sweaty climb up to Chimney Rock with full bellies was not comfortable but it got done. The view from the Rock was spectacular. Hammer thought almost as good as McAfee’s Knob. 

Since we didn’t have to make it to the diner on US 30  we decided to stop early at the Rocky Mountain Shelter.  Rain is coming overnight and all day tomorrow. The shelters in Pennsylvania come in pairs: one for snoreres and one for non-snorers. As one shelter  was empty we decided to try our first shelter sleep. It’s almost 9pm – hiker midnight –  as I’m finishing this post. The wind is rustling through the trees and it’s still quite warm. Hope the wind continues to cool thinks down a bit