ZEALAND CLIFFS
AT Day 122: Monday, August 7, 2023
SOBO Mile 1860 -1844
Mt Pierce – Zealand Cliffs
Distance Hiked – 16 miles/25.7 km
Total Distance Hiked:1999.4 miles/3200 km
A: 3773 ft /1151 m D: 4413 ft/1346 m
It was a good morning despite the grey skies. There were faint traces of pink of the sunrise illuminating the clouds. We could see Mount Washington in the distance shrouded in cloud and fog over the summit. The cloyds were not moving much unlike yesterday. So it looked like a reasonably calm start to the day up there.
We checked the weather as we had service and rain is predicted to start around 2 p.m. so we’ve got a reasonable window of time to make some progress getting off the ridge and descending to Crawford Notch. However progress was slow with lots of bouldering, especially around the summits of Mount Jackson and Mount Webster. All I could think about was thank goodness it’s not raining, the rocks would be so slippery.
The start of the descent to Crawford Notch was nerve-wracking. We were on the rocky ledge with a view down to the valley floor, it was almost vertical. I couldn’t bear to look down. The trail clung close to the edge of the cliff for some time before we ducked back in amongst the trees. The descent was steep and slow going and it felt like it went on forever.
We had phone service while still high on the ridge so I checked the weather again. It seems the rain is now expected after 4pm so we hope we can make camp before the rain arrives.
It was almost 11:30 when we made it down Crawford Notch on Route 302 where we met a Trail Angel – Stitch from AT Class of 1999. Hammers hopes were realised. While having a soda and snacks and chatting to her about her time hiking in Tasmania, it started to rain. Not heavy just enough to get you wet. So much for weather predictions. It wasn’t overly cold so we headed off the south side of Crawford Notch expecting a steep ascent. We were pleasantly surprised to find the next 7 miles was on almost flat perfectly built trail. The best section of trail we’ve hiked on the entire AT.
On the way to Zealand Pond Shelter the rain had eased off, the clouds were still grey and overcast with occasional sunlight breaking through for brief moments. It was just so pleasant hiking through the woods on trail that was really well-formed, flat and soft and just something we’ve not experienced much on the AT.
By the time we reached the Hut the rain had returned. The AMC huts on trails in New Hampshire are for paying guests only and need to be pre-booked. They are quite expensive for basic bunk style accomodation. They do offer through hikers a work for stay deal if there is work they need doing. And only 2 such spots could be available. Our visa prohibits us from taking advantage of this. A few hikers were already waiting. So we filled up with drinking water on tap and headed off up the mountain towards Mount Zealand. The rain had set in and we hoped to find a flattish campspot. By the time we reached the top of the climb from the hut, the trail flattened out and we were enveloped in fog. We found a great flat campsite near the side trail to Zealand Cliffs. We got the tent up without too much water getting inside. It was great to get under cover, out of the wind and wet clothes.
We are dry and warm in the Big Agnes Hilton while the rain and wind rage outside. We are considering our options for tomorrow. More rain was forecast for the next few days.
We have the scenic Franconia Ridge traverse tomorrow. It’s an alpine area above the treeline with Mt Lafayette at 5249 ft (1600m) in the centre. It will not be a good place to be in the wind and rain. It’s a traverse best hiked in good weather to fully experience the views.