SHIPS OF THE DESERT
PCT DAY 5: Mile 73.4 – Mile 95.2
Monday April 18, 2016: 21.8 miles + 0.5mile to water cache (35.7km)
If you consider that yesterday we were wind blasted in the morning and then slowly rotisseried in the afternoon, today all day long we were fully baked, or as Americans would say, broiled. It was a hot, dry day with hardly any shelter as we wound our way on endless loops along the San Felipe mountains. To add to the difficulty of the day we were on a long waterless stretch. We filled up our 6L of water each at Rodriguez Spur which was at mile 68 and thought we could make our next water source at mile 101 without going into Julian to top up our water. This morning we started with what we thought was enough to get us to the next water source but not enough to have dinner or breakfast. We reached the road at Scissor Crossing around 7.30 this morning and were offered a ride to Julian even before we stepped off the trail. It was very temping but we declined. Even when they mentioned the free apple pie and milkshake they offer to hikers in town.
We had not counted on this section being so open and so hot and the terrain so challenging both in profile and technical nature of the narrow path. In a way the past 4 days has lulled us into a false sense of security about the desert. Today we experienced more of what I thought the desert would be like. The whole day while going up or down the seemingly endless zig-zags over the deep gullies with steep drop offs, I kept thinking of camels – the ships of the desert. We felt a bit like camels today, just not as efficient in the heat. Lugging so much water in what could be a hostile environment if you run out.
It was such a relief to arrive at mile 91 in mid-afternoon and find that the water cache was stocked and we could fill up with water to get us to mile 101 and also have dinner tonight. Hooray, it was like finding an oasis in the desert. Not just because of the water cache but the location was also the first bit of shade- providing vegetation we had seen all day. There were quite a few hikers spread out under various shady spots recovering from their efforts in reaching this point.
Even though it was hot and the trail required focus on your footing I could not help but be captivated by the beauty of the cactus flowers. They are so gorgeous, they demand your attention. Springtime is a great time to be visiting the desert. The flowers are truly amazing in their colour, their fragility and diversity. Animal life has been less prolific. The buzzing of the bees is the only insect sound we can hear in an otherwise silent landscape. We have seen two gopher snakes so far, one yesterday and one on the first day.
Both Hammer and I are holding up well so far. It took us 12 hours to walk today’s total of 22.3 miles. We have another fantastic campspot just off the trail. We are camping without the rain fly on the tent. The difficulties of the day are almost forgotten as we admire the canopy of stars and the almost full moon above.
You must be REALLY dedicated if you passed on the Julian apple pie. Glad you are enjoying our desert blooms. They are something to behold. Joe
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We decided we may need to drive back, after we are off the PCT, to sample the apple pie. The desert blooms are stunning.
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Your photos are wonderful. They really help to bring home the conditions, trail, and land to those of us who can only do the trail vicariously. Thanks for taking the extra effort.
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So pleased you like the photos. I really enjoying this stunning landcape.
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Wow guys…that does look hot, blue sky, not a cloud…..if the desert becomes too much for Lou-Seal she is welcome back at Bondi Beach, plenty of water here…..love M xx
p.s. Anzac Day here on Monday so I’ll be back on Tuesday and look forward to catching up
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Look forward to your return Maree. Enjoy Anza Day. Lou-Seal is keen to revisit the Bondi Icebergs .
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This walk is a piece of pie for you, or not! you all look very perky especially Lou Seal no sweat.I loved the cacti and their blooms and that dog,so
beautiful helping out.
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A piece of pie, not. Is so true Judy. Thank you for following.
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Hi Guys. This is Dana. So nice to meet you in person yesterday. I thought about you today and hope you made it up to Mike’s place with the little shade I know the trail had to offer. As promised here is my contact info: Dana Robinson danarobinson99@msn.com (303-641-3837) I think you will be just ahead of me as I leave Onyx Summit next Monday morning. Good luck to you guys!
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Meeting you on the trail was a real boost. Thank you for your kind words. Will be leaving Idyllwild on Sunday. So may bump into you. Look forward to reaching Sisters in Oregon, July 3 is a stretch though.
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P’S. Mikes was a treat on a really hot hot day.
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We’ll be in Sisters on and off in June and July and August. Back on trail myself third week in June, second week in July and July 21-Aug4. O
ur house is totally available (except for fourth of July weekend wedding) I hope our paths cross.
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That is so lovely Dana. We will keep it in mind as we trek north. Enjoy your section hike and we may see you out there.
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Hi guys! I think you passed me, a friend of mine and my dog on the trail on 4/19. I took a couple pics of a few hikers way off in the distance.The man I was hiking with remembered that one of the couples had an Australian accent and that the man had an Australian patch on his shirt. I posted the pictures in the Facebook group called “PCT Class of 2016” and someone said one of the couples might be you. If you would like to email me I can send you the pics so you can take a look or if you have a facebook account you can just go to the group and take a look. 🙂
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Awesome Roxanne. Will check out the Facebook group. Hope you had a good hike.
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Greetings, Corky & Hammer. I am a friend of Jim’s and have been following his blog posts, and at his recommendation have just started to read yours. I’m enjoying the photography! Thanks for sharing your account of the PCT with everyone. If ever in San Antonio you have a B&B at our place.
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So happy to have you along for the hike Lesley. Thank you for your compliment. I am certainly enjoying the photography. The landscape is stunning. We have never been to San Antonio, so may visit one day.
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